Needle Work By Mrs . Margaret Blair - from "The Farmer's Wife" magazine, January 1st, 1906, St Paul
THE SELECTION OF LINEN .
Fortunate is the housekeeper whose linen closet is stocked with fine , pure , grass-bleached linen . But , unless she , has preserved some to which she has fallen heir—linen made at least two generations ago—the housewife of today is likely to have little or none that will fully answer this description . Grass-bleaching has given place to chemical bleaching ; and , instead of the old-fashioned mode of spreading the unbleached webs on the grass and permitting the alternate dews and sunshine of the variable Irish climate to whiten them by a process at once natural and harmless , manufacturers have resorted to the cheaper and quicker process of chemicals . This modern system weakens the fibre of the linen and ruins its wearing qualities , at the same time robbing it of the beautiful lustre which is natural to flax when properly treated.
Pure flaxen fibre , careful , conscientious weaving , and proper bleaching , a process requiring four to six months time—are the essentials of the fine old linens our mothers took so much pride in . Grass bleached linens retained their natural strength and beauty , instead of turning yellow or wearing rough in use , they even improved with age , becoming whiter and smoother . No other textiles in the world have such definite and interesting histories as linen . The place it has held in the esteem of good housewives and as a mark of gentility , dates back through the centuries , to the times when the ancient Egyptians wove fine fabrics and spent much time in the making of rich linens to adorn their homes . And their labor was amply rewarded , for the fabrics they produced possessed a durability which made them outlive the makers , and caused them to be handed down as heirlooms , from generation to generation . In these modern times , the city of Belfast , Ireland , is noted for its beautiful linens . Previous to 1830 in Ireland the spinning of flax into yarn was done by hand , but the introduction of machinery greatly increased the manufacture of the fabric and now the output of linen from Ireland alone is enormous .
It is not generally known , but is no less true , that the water in the various streams in the North of Ireland plays an important part in the production of Irish linen . It is by reason of the peculiar softness of the water contained in these streams , that it is possible to obtain from the raw flax such excellent quality . The question of how to select pure and durable linen is an important one to housekeepers . To nine-tenths of the women who undertake to buy linen , the test of its genuineness is the wet finger pressed against the wrong side of the cloth , the dampness appearing on the right side at once if the linen is pure . But I may say here that the moisture would come through every alternate thread were cotton . Much of the so called linen of the present day is a mixture of cotton and linen—usually half of each . And this admixture can only be detected by the eye of an expert . But there are other qualities besides purity that are easier to make sure of . If you wish to detect short threads which may be woven in with the long and firm threads—so desirable in linen—rub the cloth and the short threads , if there are any , will show on the surface . Then by holding the fabric to the light , you will be able to detect the short threads . This test makes it easy to see why linen containing short threads will soil and crush easily . If possible buy linen woven of long threads , for it will wear better and look better .
Fashion points quite clearly to the greater popularity of white linen the coming summer than even the past summer . For shirt-waists and dresses nothing is so attractive , and for dainty waists nothing so beautiful , as the handkerchief linen , hand-embroidered . The Japanese or Chinese linens are also very beautiful for dresses . The popularity of linen drawn-work continues and it is likely to remain high in favor for a long time to come . And to those who know what painstaking needle-work means , the Mexican drawn-work appeals.
The use of proper soap for washing linens is of the utmost importance . Cheap soaps may clear away the dirt quickly , but they are often destructive to the linens , and especially to the purity of its colors . Only the best and purest soaps should be used . Embroidered linens should be stretched into shape while wet and ironed on the wrong side before quite dry . The secret of keeping linen a pure white and lasting in wear , is to use as mild a soap as possible and to rinse again and again with fresh water until all trace of the soap has disappeared .